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Only
twenty minutes from Marbella is this beautiful Andalucian village.
The clearness of the white painted houses contrasts perfectly
with the green slopes of the Sierra Blanca. Istan means spring
and in the village you will find many springs, flowing with
fresh water.
Istán is a classic example of an Andalucian white village
and is just a short drive from the beaches of the Costa del
Sol. To reach it, leave the N-340 coastal highway 5 kilometres
south of Marbella just beyond the Hotel Puente Romano. The village
is situated beneath Sierra Blanca at the head of the valley
of the Rio Verde, close to the Serrania de Ronda hunting reserve.
As with so many mountain villages the only practical means of
transport in the past was the mule and the packhorse. The streets
of Istan are narrow and are not suited for vehicles. The only
sensible way to experience it is on foot.
There
are four à la carte restaurants in Istán, Troyano,
El Baron, Rincon de Curro, Entresierras and the new Las Harales
in the Rural Hotel at the entrance of the village. There are
also bars that serve an excellent selection of tapas. It does
boast one hotel and it had to wait until 1998 to acquire it.
Istán stands close to the huge reservoir created by
the Presa de la Concepción dam, which was built in 1972
and provides drinking water to towns all along the coast. The
water feeding Istán's fountains, however, is the pure,
unprocessed mountain variety which was much prized long before
the coming of the dam. Just outside the village, where it cascades
freely from the rocks, motorists often stop to fill their jugs
and cans.
On arrival in the village, follow the signs for the public parking.
The open space is safe and easy to find and will cost you just
1€ for unlimited parking.
History
Istán is one of a number of villages of Moorish origin
which owes its survival to its distance from the coast. The
history of Istan date back to the 14th century when after the
capture of Arboto Castle by the Christians, the defenders retreated
to the site of the present day village. Istán situated
15 kilometres inland, was allowed to remain while the coastal
Arab settlements were depopulated and frequently destroyed.
That is not to say that the mountain villages were unmolested
and left in peace. The post-reconquest years were turbulent
ones which frequently erupted into violence which resulted in
harsh and unforgiving repression for the remaining Moors. Istán
was lucky. Two associated villages Arboto and Daidin were erased
from the landscape so effectively that their precise locations
are no longer known. Even so, the Arab population diminished,
and was largely replaced by Christian settlers from Castile
and Murcia. So many came from the Murcian village of El Cristo
de Panocho, that the people of Istán acquired a nickname:
Panochos which has survived to this day. The oldest and most
important building is the parish church, built in the 16th century
on the orders of the Archbishop of Seville. Other buildings
worth seeing are the cave which houses the the Casa de la Juventud
and the Arab tower, situated at the highest point of the village.
The tower once formed part of the old castle that dominated
the local area. Very little remains of Moorish Istán,
merely the crumbling remains of a tower hidden in a side street,
but at least there is some, and the village still has the timeless
air that outsiders find so appealing.
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